Inspired by the unbothered sensuality and raw confidence embodied by Italian actresses of yesteryear, Vellutini launched its first collection this past summer. Each piece is embroidered with a coral branch motif, and some feature little hand-shaped coral charms—a talisman that has been worn for good luck for centuries.
By weaving these ancestral myths into the most intimate of garments, Jeanne is aiming to use her designs as a vessel for history. “This project was really about sharing my culture and making some art,” she tells me. “That’s what I want to keep doing.”
What sparked the idea of creating a lingerie brand rooted in Corsican and Mediterranean traditions?
I started working with lingerie because I wanted to create something deeply rooted in Mediterranean culture, but I couldn’t come up with clothing designs that were worth creating. I am a strong believer in the fact that, with the current environmental issues creating a brand poses, it is very important to only create pieces you truly believe in. As soon as I tried designing lingerie and nightwear, something clicked. I have always loved buying those myself, and it allowed me to tap into inspirations from the 1920s I had been so fond of in the past few years.
Tell me more about that 1920s connection! Is there anything in particular about that era that translates to the pieces you’re creating now?
I’m a history nerd, and I’ve always been into art in general, so fashion history, particularly between the 1920s and 1930s, influences me as a designer. The things we created during that era are so amazing in the sense that they are so simple and yet work so well.
You emphasize that Vellutini’s lingerie is “designed to embody the Mediterranean ideal of beauty.” What does that mean to you?
I think it really has to do with the way sensuality is portrayed in the Mediterranean and about reclaiming that empowering, natural part of yourself. We’ve all seen those photos from 1960s Italian films—these gorgeous women with really dark hair who just exude this confident, powerful sensuality in such a natural way. To me, this is the Mediterranean ideal of beauty. It’s about being comfortable in your lingerie, both in a physical sense but also mentally.
All your pieces are hand-made in Italy, and similarly, you only use fabrics from Italy. Can you share a little bit about your decision to focus solely on Italian craftsmanship?
I source all my fabrics from Italy, because we know that’s where the best quality is. So many other countries make great things, but there’s a reason why Italy is the center of fashion. For example, I get the silk from around Lake Como, which is a big manufacturing hub for mulberry silk, and all my pieces, from the beginning to the end of the process, are made in my ateliers in Mantua and in Rome.
Within the fashion industry, there are so many misconceptions about the idea of something being handmade. I see so many huge brands being like “oh, yeah, it’s handmade in Italy,” but in reality, it’s only the last few little stitches that have been done by hand in Italy. I really wanted to create something that went beyond that.
Another big identity marker for your brand is coral. Can you tell me a bit about the significance of coral in Corsican culture and why it resonates with Vellutini?
Coral became super important in the Roman era, and it’s part of our identity; it’s something we interact with daily. In Corsica, it’s tradition to be gifted a lot of coral when you’re born. We have this belief, which is very similar to the Greek myth of the ‘evil eye,’ that negative energy can get to you and really affect you. We wear coral in the shape of a hand in Corsica — that’s what I mainly use in my products. So, I use coral as a way of grounding my brand in my culture. I’m trying to share my culture and, so, sharing these little stories our ancestors helped create feels very meaningful.
How do you ensure the coral sourced for Vellutini is done responsibly and with reef preservation efforts in mind?
So basically, there are only a small handful of people who are legally allowed to dive for coral. The field is heavily regulated in France and Italy. I work with just this one artisan, in Torre del Greco, who I know sources coral ethically and who’s been doing it the same way, on a human scale, for generations. This is also very important to support the local economy. You don’t want to look for coral on the internet, because you can’t say for sure where it comes from or how it was harvested.
Okay, so conducting all aspects of your business locally is also an important factor for you.
Yeah, my philosophy for creating the brand was that I wanted it to be 100 percent made in the Mediterranean, from the design to the sewing to any embellishments that might be done along the way. This was really important with respect to my culture because, yes, you’re creating a product, and the end goal is always going to be to sell it, but I don’t think we should be losing our soul in the process. By keeping everything within reach, I can support the local economy that I know is on a human scale, which is very important to me.
If you could distill it into one feeling or moment, what do you hope someone experiences when they wear Vellutini for the first time?
I’m trying to create a little piece of the Mediterranean sea that people can bring into their daily lives and wear. I think the things you surround yourself with are creating and grounding your reality. I’m hoping that when people wear what I’m creating, it will transport them. If my product can replicate the feeling of a sensory memory—like wearing a perfume that transports you back to a particular trip or hot summer evening—even half the sentiment, then I think I’ve won.